Fields of frost – Éclairs au chocolat, presque comme chez Fauchon

A story about la pâtisserie, , , , , , , , , .

Written on le Tuesday 28 February 2012.

[Chocolate eclairs, almost like Fauchon's]

When trees are shaped like hearts; and breakfast means just-brewed coffee slash bike ride slash jonchée eaten as soon as I’ve taken my gum boots off.

And we run barefoot in fields of frost. And the grass glows to the moonlight in a way only gems can. With la grande ourse [the great bear] and a feral cat as our only companions for this aimless journey.

We breathe the cold air and feel alive. We kiss and feel warmer. It’s the very instant that matters.

Yes, at times, it’s ok to loose track. Of time, of purpose…
Days are long. And nights too.

Crossing off to-dos like there is no tomorrow, because, after all, holidays are made of no-tomorrows.

Today, we made éclairs, à la Fauchon. It was fun, and messy. The kitchen ended up looking à la Fauchon too. Stripped with white and black fondants.

It’s fine, really. It is.

We licked our fingers. And ate an éclair, of the à la minute kind. Then scrubbed the counter until it no longer felt sticky. Just our mouths did. And that is a good sign, by all accounts.

Éclairs au chocolat
Inspired by Fauchon.

If you can make choux paste and crème pâtissière, then it really all gets down to glazing an éclair with fondant, then piping straight lines of a coloured fondant. This can be made with either a piping bag or a paper cornet (the latter being my favourite, some things will never change, trust me).

The only trick to know is to make sure both fondant have the same temperature and texture.
For the chocolate fondant, I simply added a bit of cacao powder until it looked dark enough. Then mixed in 30°B syrup until the texture seemed just right.

I guess it’s a bit of a trial and error at first. But it’s ok. We love sticky fingers around here.

And since I’m at it, fondant is a kind of crystallised sugar that can be found in fancy shops. In case it’s nowhere to be found, try mixing icing sugar and a tiny bit of water…

Both the choux paste and crème pâtissière can be made in advance. Since the paste is frozen, you can make it up to a week before. And the cream can stay in the fridge for a couple of days.
However, once the éclairs are filled, they’re best eaten in the day.

Éclairs au chocolat

makes 12 éclair
for the choux paste
one recipe of choux paste
one egg
, for eggwash
butter, to grease the baking tray

Make the choux paste according to the recipe.
Pipe it onto a baking tray lined with baking paper into logs using a 15mm nozzle; then freeze. Cut into 13cm-long éclairs and arrange on a buttered tray. And bake until golden brown (tips on how to bake choux paste here).

for the crème pâtissière

250g milk
100g cream
2 egg yolks
30g caster sugar
15g cornflour
100g dark chocolate

Bring the milk and cream to the boil. In a bowl, mix the egg yolks with the sugar and cornflour. Pour the boiling liquids over the yolks, whisking as you go. Then place back into the pan and cook – whisking at all times – until boiling.
Transfer to a bowl and add the chocolate. Handblend and clingfilm to the touch. Chill.

Using a small nozzle, fill the eclairs. And set aside.

for the glaze
fondant
cacao powder
30°B syrup
(100g caster sugar + 100g water, brought to the boil, then chilled)

Melt the fondant over a bain-marie or in the microwave. Divide into two heatproof bowls. Add cacao powder to colour one of the batches into a dark brown fondant.

Reheat both fondant over a bain-marie or in the microwave, until it reaches 30-35°C. Adding a little syrup to make it runny enough. Then using a small spatula or your finger, glaze the top of the éclair.
Immediately pipe straight lines of dark fondant, making sure the tip of your bag or cornet is cut small enough (perhaps 2mm, the fondant will spread). Then run your finger along the éclair to clean up it sides and twirl the end of the piped lines.

Repeat with the remaining éclairs. They will keep in the fridge overnight, although they’re best eaten on the same day.

Give me more:

15 Comments

  1. Devina Divecha (FooDee)
    Feb 28, 2012

    Those look absolutely gorgeous. I love the design you’ve created on top.

    Reply

  2. Muffins love me
    Feb 28, 2012

    Simply beautiful !

    Reply

  3. littlek
    Feb 28, 2012

    Lovely pictures! It makes me wanna make some, just to try this ” à la fauchon” design.. bravo, bravo!

    Reply

  4. mariaclaudia
    Feb 28, 2012

    I had a bad experience with the choux paste, but this recipe give me new inspiration to try again.

    Do it. Yes. Do. It. This recipe has been tested many many times.

    Reply

  5. Lucia
    Feb 28, 2012

    Heart shaped trees and éclairs: these are reasons to love the present.

    <3

    Reply

  6. tanja
    Feb 28, 2012

    Oh they look yummy! and what a beautiful tree!!

    Reply

  7. Delphine
    Feb 29, 2012

    Toujours aussi poétique, féérique, romatinque… Tes mots et tes photos font rêver, et le contenu de l’assiette est toujours splendide !
    Bises,
    Delphine

    Merci xx.

    Reply

  8. joey
    Feb 29, 2012

    I think I will like this even better than regular eclairs…lovely!

    And oh the importance of, once in a while, losing track of time…

    Reply

  9. nancy
    Mar 01, 2012

    you make it sound sooooo easy! ;)) they look and must taste fabulous!

    Perhaps, because it is… easy. Or at least, that what I want people to feel when making patisserie. it should be scary ;)

    Reply

  10. Aïda
    Mar 04, 2012

    Ca m’a l’air si bon, c’est magnifique!
    Pour une fois que ce n’est pas moi qui fait le croc pour la photo, j’en suis bien triste!

    Reply

  11. Ana_IloveTdP
    Mar 04, 2012

    I love eclairs, I am so whishing to make them at home… I tried once a couple of weeks ago and it was a disaster, they were flat 5 minutes after I took them from the oven.

    I will try your recipe and Lac technique next time! :)

    By the way, lovely pics as usual ;)

    Yes, Pascal’s technique is foolproof. It has never failed me, no matter which oven I use.

    Reply

  12. sooishi
    Apr 10, 2012

    so pretty!

    bises :)

    Reply

  13. like a strawberry milk » Réussir le fondant pâtissier blanc, pas à pas – Mastering white pâtissier fondant, step by step
    May 29, 2012

    [...] takes around ten minutes to make a kilo of fondant. So get ready to glaze éclairs like there is no tomorrow, because you’re about to learn how to make fondant pâtissier. Here [...]

    Reply

  14. kat
    Nov 01, 2012

    one of these days I´ll try to follow your recipe…

    looks very challenging!

    it almost frightens me…

    love your fotos!

    Reply

  15. Lester
    Jan 21, 2013

    This might be a dumb question but do you apply the egg-wash before freezing the paste or just before placing in the oven? Thanks.

    Reply