Feed the chefs #1 – Carrés au citron

You can ask any chef; staff meals are a luxury in the restaurant industry. Over the past ten years, I’ve come across almost anything. The baguettes we’d be sent to buy at the wonderful Des gâteaux et du pain, sliced in half lengthways, and placed on the bench along with a container of Bordier butter, one of home-made strawberry jam, and one filled with fleur ...

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On pâte sucrée (and my favourite lemon meringue tart)

I intended for today’s post to be short – almost-wordless short. Really, it was just meant to be a recipe that I developped for a nut-free pâte sucrée. And that what it is, in essence. With a few notes around it. In France – or at least at the pâtisseries where I worked, and in books and magazines – pâte sucrée will always call for ...

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Le chasseur et le ceuilleur – Macarons à la pèche

[The hunter and the gatherer – Peach macarons] Today, I don’t have any magical stories to tell you. It’s summer. And that’s magical enough for me. Yes, I’ve walked barefoot in the grass. And sat on a bench where the river and the book that both lay past my eyes, almost became one. We’ve taken walks after midnight, with a glow in the sky that ...

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Basic pâtisserie creams: la crème pâtissière

The process. Crème pâtissière is the starting point for many other creams, which we’re going to discuss over the next few articles. It’s pretty straight-forward to make. 1. Bring milk and vanilla to the boil; allow to infuse for at least half-an-hour, then pass through a fine-mesh sieve. 2. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar until combined. Then mix in the cornflour. 3. Bring the ...

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The sound of icebergs – La tarte tropézienne

There is the sound of the icebergs bumping into each other with every wave, not unlike a distant thunderstorm. There is the forest that I’ve walked through so many times before, now covered in a thick blanket of snow. There are lakrits [liquorice] cookies in the oven. And lights by every window we see. Yes, this is it. Sweden. And really, it’s just as wonderful ...

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Fields of frost – Éclairs au chocolat, presque comme chez Fauchon

[Chocolate eclairs, almost like Fauchon’s] When trees are shaped like hearts; and breakfast means just-brewed coffee slash bike ride slash jonchée eaten as soon as I’ve taken my gum boots off. And we run barefoot in fields of frost. And the grass glows to the moonlight in a way only gems can. With la grande ourse [the great bear] and a feral cat as our ...

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