A brioche study, part one: the approach

brioche paris pastry club

Analysing the impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in brioche formulas In the first part of my forever-unfinished feature How to be a pastry chef? – the checklist, I asked you some questions about brioche with the aim to develop your curiosity and drive you to research important techniques. It went along the following lines: Do […]

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Saffransbullar med mandelmassa

saffransbullar-polaroid-illustration

[Swedish saffron and almond buns] Sunrise: 9:33 AM Sunset: 1:28 PM Temperature: -11.8°C The Swedish saffron and almond buns you see here were made on the twenty-fourth of November. Perhaps, it was a Tuesday. Or a Monday. But I remember how we made the dough the night before. And topped it with marzipan butter in […]

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Vaniljfudge

vanilla fudge

Sunrise: 9:20 AM Sunset: 1:36 PM Temperature: – 1.9°C I made some fudge yesterday. Vanilla fudge, of the old-fashioned kind. And really, I have no idea what it even means – old-fashioned fudge – but I saw it somewhere and liked the sound of it. Old-fashioned. Perhaps, with more ingredients than your standard condensed milk […]

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Honungssnittar

honungssnittar

A story about honey biscuit-slices, Christmas nook and the first advent Sunday Sunrise: 8:57 AM Sunset: 1:51 PM Temperature: 2.9°C Things haven’t evolved much since the days of my childhood Christmases. The tree gets decorated early. Biscuits get baked. So does my mom’s pain d’épices. Some years, Aïda and I will attempt to make marrons […]

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Everything falls into place – Raw muesli bars

raw muesli bars-4

I spoke with my grand-mère last night. We settled on soup, mostly. Vegetables and a few spoonfuls of lentils or split peas. And citrouille [pumpkin] cooked with its skin on in a light bouillon. Yes, the approaching winter means soup for dinner. It also means a half-past-three dusk and long evenings at home. Kalle has […]

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My ultimate kanelbullar, un peu comme des brioches

kanelbullar-film

[My ultimate kanelbullar, not unlike cinnamon brioches] Tomorrow is the 4th of October. A date that doesn’t go unnoticed in Sweden. Yes, tomorrow is kanelbullens dag [cinnamon roll day]. I must have felt that this post – which I promised to share with you long before I even knew kanelbullar had their own day – […]

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Rhubarb custard squares

rhubarb square

In Kusmark, the apple trees, now heavy with blossoms are buzzing with bumblebees. The rhubarb has grown taller than me. Strawberry and raspberry bushes are just starting to bloom. Yes, every time we go there – more often than not on the weekend – I can’t stay away from the garden, mesmerised by how fast […]

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Basic pâtisserie creams: la crème pâtissière

patisserie creams-6

The process. Crème pâtissière is the starting point for many other creams, which we’re going to discuss over the next few articles. It’s pretty straight-forward to make. 1. Bring milk and vanilla to the boil; allow to infuse for at least half-an-hour, then pass through a fine-mesh sieve. 2. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar […]

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Sugar, acid and pectin content of fruits

strawberry bush

It seems like we’re having a bit of a jam week around here. I guess it’s only natural when the world around us blooms in an exponential kind of way. Here we’ve had a rather unusual month of May. Lots of sun. Lots of rain too. And because the temperatures rarely get above 20°C, once […]

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Small-batch rhubarb jam

rhubarb jam

I made this jam a week ago today. Of course, I had planned on telling you about it straight away, but exciting projects, a redesign, and kick-ass grades in my Swedish classes (insert thumb-up emoji here) got in the way. With Lisa’s comment in mind, I stirred the fruits into the hot syrup. She wanted […]

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A quick note on anthocyanins and pH

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I absolutely love to make jam; whether it’s ten kilograms of fruits or five hundred grams. Somehow, I’ve always found the process very calming, not unlike some sort of kitchen meditation. One thing I find especially wonderful is how much brighter the colour of the jam becomes after the addition of acid – and for […]

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