A brioche study, recipe: the “generic” brioche (control)

Analysing the impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in brioche formulas The formula The recipe shown below will make two 500g loaves. I chose, however, to make half a batch, yielding to a single loaf, which is something I’ll carry on doing over the next experiments, as the kneading time of a half-recipe takes longer when done in a stand-mixer; more on that to come in ...

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A brioche study, part one: the approach

Analysing the impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in brioche formulas In the first part of my forever-unfinished feature How to be a pastry chef? – the checklist, I asked you some questions about brioche with the aim to develop your curiosity and drive you to research important techniques. It went along the following lines: Do you know brioche dough is an emulsion? Do you treat ...

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Saffransbullar med mandelmassa

[Swedish saffron and almond buns] Sunrise: 9:33 AM Sunset: 1:28 PM Temperature: -11.8°C The Swedish saffron and almond buns you see here were made on the twenty-fourth of November. Perhaps, it was a Tuesday. Or a Monday. But I remember how we made the dough the night before. And topped it with marzipan butter in the morning, just as a trumpet in the distance started ...

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Vaniljfudge

Sunrise: 9:20 AM Sunset: 1:36 PM Temperature: – 1.9°C I made some fudge yesterday. Vanilla fudge, of the old-fashioned kind. And really, I have no idea what it even means – old-fashioned fudge – but I saw it somewhere and liked the sound of it. Old-fashioned. Perhaps, with more ingredients than your standard condensed milk recipe. Perhaps, it’s the cream and sugar. Or the way ...

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Honungssnittar

A story about honey biscuit-slices, Christmas nook and the first advent Sunday Sunrise: 8:57 AM Sunset: 1:51 PM Temperature: 2.9°C Things haven’t evolved much since the days of my childhood Christmases. The tree gets decorated early. Biscuits get baked. So does my mom’s pain d’épices. Some years, Aïda and I will attempt to make marrons glacés [candied chestnuts], which is never a success since most ...

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Everything falls into place – Raw muesli bars

I spoke with my grand-mère last night. We settled on soup, mostly. Vegetables and a few spoonfuls of lentils or split peas. And citrouille [pumpkin] cooked with its skin on in a light bouillon. Yes, the approaching winter means soup for dinner. It also means a half-past-three dusk and long evenings at home. Kalle has been tying flies and installing new operating systems on his ...

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On Kitchenaids

We’ve now been in Sweden for almost eight months. Many of those were made of snow. And a little summer too. There are now golden leaves everywhere around us. And some mornings, the ground keeps its beautiful frost for hours after the sun rises. Yes, I’ve told you before, I’m looking forward my first Swedish Christmas! I have a few things on my wish-list, and ...

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On fields of frost, counting to Christmas and a green smoothie

Stories from the recent past: I’ve finally developed my last two rolls of film, which had some pictures I took back in London! You can see two of them above. The first, taken in Chislehurst, when Kalle and I decided to take the train and stop at a random station. We ended up spending the day at a small pub there, cosying up by a ...

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My ultimate kanelbullar, un peu comme des brioches

[My ultimate kanelbullar, not unlike cinnamon brioches] Tomorrow is the 4th of October. A date that doesn’t go unnoticed in Sweden. Yes, tomorrow is kanelbullens dag [cinnamon roll day]. I must have felt that this post – which I promised to share with you long before I even knew kanelbullar had their own day – was waiting in my drafts for a reason. This is ...

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Chasing rugbrød, part one

We waked, in the two cabins in those happy days, just before the sun came up, when the birds were in their loudest clamor of morning joy. Wrapped each in a blanket, George and I stepped out from our doors, each trying to call the other, and often meeting on the grass between. We ran to the river and plunged in,—oh, how cold it was!—laughed ...

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