Feed the chefs #1 – Carrés au citron

You can ask any chef; staff meals are a luxury in the restaurant industry. Over the past ten years, I’ve come across almost anything. The baguettes we’d be sent to buy at the wonderful Des gâteaux et du pain, sliced in half lengthways, and placed on the bench along with a container of Bordier butter, one of home-made strawberry jam, and one filled with fleur ...

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Pastry chef tips – Tour double

Single fold? Double fold? When it comes to laminated doughs, you find two types of tours (literally turns, although I tend to refer to them as folds in English): the tour simple – or single fold – and the tour double – otherwise known as double fold. I’m planning on making a post describing both types, along with some notes; but today’s pastry chef tip ...

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Recipe studies: Brioche

Every few weeks or so, we’ll explore another aspect of the science behind brioche; from the study of the impact of the egg to milk ratio in the dough, to techniques and further questions. Follow the study here or on instagram: #BRIOCHESTUDY. A list of posts, written or to be published: A brioche study, part one: the approach A brioche study, part two: the method ...

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Morning snow – Fromage blanc cake

There was a day spent in the garden. A rake in the hands, and dead leaves piled high on a wheelbarrow. That day, the sun was high and warm, just like the two eagles we’d seen earlier, right after sunrise. The following morning was an entirely different story. A story made of snowflakes and a crackling fireplace. Both lasted all day, for the record. I ...

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Stories from a recent past – Romtårta

One morning, we left for Byske as soon as K. got home; with, for only reason, the two horses that he’d seen and wanted to show me. In the distance, a farm broke through the wall of björkar [birches] that lines the road. As we approached, it became clear that the horses had been moved. Instead, we stopped a few hundreds of meters later, way ...

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On pâte sucrée (and my favourite lemon meringue tart)

I intended for today’s post to be short – almost-wordless short. Really, it was just meant to be a recipe that I developped for a nut-free pâte sucrée. And that what it is, in essence. With a few notes around it. In France – or at least at the pâtisseries where I worked, and in books and magazines – pâte sucrée will always call for ...

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Something only we know – Our favourite cinnamon shortbreads

It’s still very much winter here in Skellefteå. In fact, we’ve had a blizzard over the weekend; snow, at times twirling around with the winds; and at other times, falling almost horizontally. A western under the snow. Not unlike the Dyonisos album that lullabied my teenage years. Oh love me, Oh kiss me, I’m lying on western under the snow You’re the sky of my ...

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A brioche study, recipe: the “generic” brioche (control)

Analysing the impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in brioche formulas The formula The recipe shown below will make two 500g loaves. I chose, however, to make half a batch, yielding to a single loaf, which is something I’ll carry on doing over the next experiments, as the kneading time of a half-recipe takes longer when done in a stand-mixer; more on that to come in ...

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A brioche study, part one: the approach

Analysing the impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in brioche formulas In the first part of my forever-unfinished feature How to be a pastry chef? – the checklist, I asked you some questions about brioche with the aim to develop your curiosity and drive you to research important techniques. It went along the following lines: Do you know brioche dough is an emulsion? Do you treat ...

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Saffransbullar med mandelmassa

[Swedish saffron and almond buns] Sunrise: 9:33 AM Sunset: 1:28 PM Temperature: -11.8°C The Swedish saffron and almond buns you see here were made on the twenty-fourth of November. Perhaps, it was a Tuesday. Or a Monday. But I remember how we made the dough the night before. And topped it with marzipan butter in the morning, just as a trumpet in the distance started ...

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