A brioche study, part one: the approach

brioche paris pastry club

Analysing the impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in brioche formulas In the first part of my forever-unfinished feature How to be a pastry chef? – the checklist, I asked you some questions about brioche with the aim to develop your curiosity and drive you to research important techniques. It went along the following lines: Do […]

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Saffransbullar med mandelmassa

saffransbullar-polaroid-illustration

[Swedish saffron and almond buns] Sunrise: 9:33 AM Sunset: 1:28 PM Temperature: -11.8°C The Swedish saffron and almond buns you see here were made on the twenty-fourth of November. Perhaps, it was a Tuesday. Or a Monday. But I remember how we made the dough the night before. And topped it with marzipan butter in […]

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Vaniljfudge

vanilla fudge

Sunrise: 9:20 AM Sunset: 1:36 PM Temperature: – 1.9°C I made some fudge yesterday. Vanilla fudge, of the old-fashioned kind. And really, I have no idea what it even means – old-fashioned fudge – but I saw it somewhere and liked the sound of it. Old-fashioned. Perhaps, with more ingredients than your standard condensed milk […]

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Honungssnittar

honungssnittar

A story about honey biscuit-slices, Christmas nook and the first advent Sunday Sunrise: 8:57 AM Sunset: 1:51 PM Temperature: 2.9°C Things haven’t evolved much since the days of my childhood Christmases. The tree gets decorated early. Biscuits get baked. So does my mom’s pain d’épices. Some years, Aïda and I will attempt to make marrons […]

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Everything falls into place – Raw muesli bars

raw muesli bars-4

I spoke with my grand-mère last night. We settled on soup, mostly. Vegetables and a few spoonfuls of lentils or split peas. And citrouille [pumpkin] cooked with its skin on in a light bouillon. Yes, the approaching winter means soup for dinner. It also means a half-past-three dusk and long evenings at home. Kalle has […]

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On Kitchenaids

kitchenaid-illustration

We’ve now been in Sweden for almost eight months. Many of those were made of snow. And a little summer too. There are now golden leaves everywhere around us. And some mornings, the ground keeps its beautiful frost for hours after the sun rises. Yes, I’ve told you before, I’m looking forward my first Swedish […]

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My ultimate kanelbullar, un peu comme des brioches

kanelbullar-film

[My ultimate kanelbullar, not unlike cinnamon brioches] Tomorrow is the 4th of October. A date that doesn’t go unnoticed in Sweden. Yes, tomorrow is kanelbullens dag [cinnamon roll day]. I must have felt that this post – which I promised to share with you long before I even knew kanelbullar had their own day – […]

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Chasing rugbrød, part one

danskt ragbrod

We waked, in the two cabins in those happy days, just before the sun came up, when the birds were in their loudest clamor of morning joy. Wrapped each in a blanket, George and I stepped out from our doors, each trying to call the other, and often meeting on the grass between. We ran […]

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En semester i Lövnäs, andra dagen

kokkaffe

[A summer holiday in Lövnäs, second day] A breakfast made of pumpernickel and boiled eggs, oats and cherry yoghurt was eaten by the rainy window. Soon enough we set off to the lake and had sweets before lunch. We settled for a little island, north of the lake, and as we came to the shore, […]

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Rhubarb custard squares

rhubarb square

In Kusmark, the apple trees, now heavy with blossoms are buzzing with bumblebees. The rhubarb has grown taller than me. Strawberry and raspberry bushes are just starting to bloom. Yes, every time we go there – more often than not on the weekend – I can’t stay away from the garden, mesmerised by how fast […]

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Basic pâtisserie creams: la crème pâtissière

patisserie creams-6

The process. Crème pâtissière is the starting point for many other creams, which we’re going to discuss over the next few articles. It’s pretty straight-forward to make. 1. Bring milk and vanilla to the boil; allow to infuse for at least half-an-hour, then pass through a fine-mesh sieve. 2. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar […]

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